Kids and carbs. Education needed.

[jrmunn]

Changing points is not hard, but GMC did their best to make it that way. From what I read, the 60-66 V6's can have two types of distributers, one with a large rotor under the cap, and the other with a small rotor. Both are at the back of the engine where they are awkward to work on. Mine has the small rotor model that has the points screwed into the base under the rotor where they are simple to remove and install, but the gap adjustment requires turning a screwdriver placed in a slot while separately loosening and tightening the hold-down screw while the points are positioned where the cam lobe gives the widest separation. My experience has been that this is basically a trial and error method that one keeps doing until the gap is correct. The gap measurement is made with a metal feeler gauge.

Once the gap is set, a dwell meter can be used to see if the points are opening and closing within the specified degrees of rotation. I don't know if this is essential, but it helps me know that things are working right.

Timing should be checked after changing points, and adjusting timing requires loosening the distributor hold-down bolt , which is in a hard-to-reach (for me) location under the distributor. I use a crows-foot on a ratchet extension to do this. Once loose, the timing can be advanced by turning the distributor toward the vacuum advance housing and retarded by turning the other way.

And while you are at it, this is also a good time to install a new condenser.

Good luck with this. Original equipment points do wear out and need to be changed. More often in my case because the resistance wire that is supposed to limit ignition voltage after the engine starts is not working, which causes the point contacts to burn out more quickly. This can all be fixed by installing a Pertronix ignition system that I hope to get around to someday.

JRMunn

[TJ's GMC]

A friend of mine who has owned Lot's of these v6's over the years told me that if the fuel pump itself is bad, the engine will normally still Idle, but will not accelerate.

[Noahr63]

I was talking with someone a lot more knowledgeable than my self and this is what I have done. As simple as this was and a drive around the block I have a temporary fix. if I get stranded because im overly confident I will let you guys know hahaha! when looking at the carb I was told to play with the throttle to see if there was any play or slack before the accelerator pump engaged. there was some. I was able to bend the rod between the accelerator pump and the butterfly on the throttle to get rid of that slack. As it seems for now everything is a little more responsive and the hesitation upon acceleration is all but gone. It is worth noting that before I did this the truck was hard to shut down once warmed up. it wanted to keep running. now it seems to shut down just fine. I also let it sit for a day and I did not have to pump it to get it started. before I did this I would have to pump it at least 10 times to get her started.If anything changes I will let you guys know.thanks for all the helpful knowledge and imput

[TJ's GMC]

Good to know it's running good!

[Clarke]

Originally Posted by GMC Guy

You are welcome to check out the pics of my oil bath air filter modification to a paper filter. Let me know if you have a problem with the link? https://gmcguy.shutterfly.com/pictures/1449

I did the same air filter mod to my oil bath housing several years ago. Although, looks like oil bath is a different size/style. I don't know why hey are different, but I thought I'd share due to the difference. I included the paper filter part number in one of the photos...

[Noahr63]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=816LfX6iuRA
A video of her starting today!

[TJ's GMC]

Originally Posted by Noahr63

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=816LfX6iuRA
A video of her starting today!

Nice video! Sounds good. Subscribed to your channel.