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#1
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Currently have a V-12 in my rat rod. The engine over heated while idling. Had the radiator cleaned and it was mentioned my radiator can't handle the volume of water moved for the engine. Could this cooling issue be solved by adding a 16 inch electrical phan? Needs some opinions.
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#2
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1961 GMC Suburban 305A Overdrive 1962 GMC Utility 305D |
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#3
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If the radiator is getting hot at idle only but is fine otherwise, then an electric fan will help.
Last edited by James; March 19th, 2026 at 01:48 PM. |
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#4
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From the previous post forum, a mention of overheating on the V12 from Coyoterun
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1961 GMC Suburban 305A Overdrive 1962 GMC Utility 305D |
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#5
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Sadly I think he's gone on to the happy hunting ground. He's been out of communication for a few years now. Great guy!
__________________
Step by steps: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Some people are like slinkys. Not worth much but funny as heck when pushed down stairs. __________________ If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to FetchMeAPepsi For This Useful Post: | ||
Funky61 (March 19th, 2026) | ||
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#6
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utoman, After having the heating problems a engine shop helped me last year. we discovered I had no advance in my distributer. It was welded like race cars do I guess. So he advanced it bunch some how. It ran cooler in 80+temp. I don't know what at timing before you ask. He adjusted it at the meter that I don't understand. It may start harder now he said. I have my 3rd custom radiator now. The widest and tallest I can fit. It is 4 core and double pass. That is with the 2 biggest volume air fans I can fit. I also ended up with a 2:73 rear end that goes 70-75 mph at little over 1200rpm that helps.
Hope this helps a bit. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Rap'em Pappy For This Useful Post: | ||
Funky61 (Yesterday) | ||
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#7
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At every oil change the distributor should be inspected. The distributor mechanical advances should be check for freedom of movement (you should be able to rotate it clockwise several degrees and when you let go of it, it should spring back and the is no sloppy movements) and lubricated if necessary. Also while your there, check the vacuum advance diaphragm (with vacuum on it it should rotate the point mounting base counter-clockwise. When vacuum is removed it should snapback) for internal leakage and the hose for deterioration. The point should be visually inspected for pitting and replace the point and condenser if necessary. Set the points with a dwell meter. Then set the distributor timimg with a timing light. |
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#8
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You jogged the cobwebs out of my memory. I checked what me and cayoterrun brain storming notes were.. All irrigation engines have locked advance when made that we saw. Because they run for 6 months at a constant speed. No vacuum advance is used. All 6 that I have here are that way. The L7000's semis engine that I sold had normal advance. So it depends on what engine you have. I was confused with the L7000. Rap'em Pappy is a irrigation V12 same as Balaur. was. I should have figured that out last fall. It is **** getting old.
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