Radiator size V12

[atomman]

Currently have a V-12 in my rat rod. The engine over heated while idling. Had the radiator cleaned and it was mentioned my radiator can't handle the volume of water moved for the engine. Could this cooling issue be solved by adding a 16 inch electrical phan? Needs some opinions.
Thanks
Dan

[Funky61]

I'd PM Rap'emPappy, he would know.

https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.p...yoterun&page=3

[James]

If the radiator is getting hot at idle only but is fine otherwise, then an electric fan will help.

[Funky61]

From the previous post forum, a mention of overheating on the V12 from Coyoterun

I live in the heart of crop irrigation. V-12s were a very popular motor here for powering irrigation pumps. .60 over was the max. on them. Some have tried overbores and sleeved back. They weren't very successful. However they ran 24/7 under full load. I have a running V-12, I put in a 1-ton truck. It's only bored .30, and I'm having trouble with overheating due to accumulated rust, mineral deposites and crud in the water jacket. I've tried everything I can think of to clean it up.
I hope to evenually find a radiator big enough to cool it. Good luck and glad to hear another V12 is being brought back to life. Cayoterun, Marvin, Okla.

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by Funky61

From the previous post forum, a mention of overheating on the V12 from Coyoterun

Coyote, my old Braums buddy!
Sadly I think he's gone on to the happy hunting ground. He's been out of communication for a few years now. Great guy!

[Rap'em Pappy]

utoman, After having the heating problems a engine shop helped me last year. we discovered I had no advance in my distributer. It was welded like race cars do I guess. So he advanced it bunch some how. It ran cooler in 80+temp. I don't know what at timing before you ask. He adjusted it at the meter that I don't understand. It may start harder now he said. I have my 3rd custom radiator now. The widest and tallest I can fit. It is 4 core and double pass. That is with the 2 biggest volume air fans I can fit. I also ended up with a 2:73 rear end that goes 70-75 mph at little over 1200rpm that helps.
Hope this helps a bit.

[James]

Originally Posted by Rap'em Pappy

we discovered I had no advance in my distributer. It was welded like race cars do I guess. So he advanced it bunch some how. It ran cooler in 80+temp. I don't know what at timing before you ask. He adjusted it at the meter that I don't understand. It may start harder now he said.

Yes, a locked (or seized from dried up lube or rust) distributor can cause an engine to overheat. If the shop didn't fix the distributor and just advance it, it will make it harder to start and could make the engine ping (spark knock) too. Installing a replacement unit would be a better idea. It would be easy starting, smoother acceleration, and better gas mileage. Also make sure the vacuum advance is working, this will also help with the gas mileage.

At every oil change the distributor should be inspected. The distributor mechanical advances should be check for freedom of movement (you should be able to rotate it clockwise several degrees and when you let go of it, it should spring back and the is no sloppy movements) and lubricated if necessary. Also while your there, check the vacuum advance diaphragm (with vacuum on it it should rotate the point mounting base counter-clockwise. When vacuum is removed it should snapback) for internal leakage and the hose for deterioration. The point should be visually inspected for pitting and replace the point and condenser if necessary. Set the points with a dwell meter. Then set the distributor timimg with a timing light.