Clutch slave spring mount

[TRybas]

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the clutch spring mount. I see no good way to attach it, can’t find anything in the manual or the forum. I assume a bracket got lost in the shuffle. If that’s the case I’m in the market if anyone has an extra.

Thanks, TJ

[Funky61]

Do you mean this one?

[TRybas]

Yes thank you. My spring has a much larger diameter and does not fit to that hole in the frame. I assumed a bracket attached by that frame hole. And the spring mounted to that.

[Funky61]

Your welcome TJ

[James]

Here another link:
https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.p...=clutch+spring

[Jim A]

As long as you are spending time on your slave cylinder, would you check to see if the piston travels all the way to the snap ring?
I've finished rebuilding my clutch ('60 1500) but still can't get an adjustment setting that gives me free play and release.
That is, when I get enough travel to let the disk to turn, the throw out bearing is under a lot of pressure.

[Jim A]

There is a 1/2" +/- hole in the frame just opposite the inlet end of the cylinder that woks well.
I think we used the inlet hyfraulic line for a while, too.

[TRybas]

Jim. Mine was at 7/16th before it reached the snap ring. I tightened up the slop in the peddle (extend the pushrod at the master cylinder) and it now reaches the snap ring under no load. Under a load it still does not reach the snap ring. No good way to measure that distance.

I had my sm420 completely rebuilt while everything was apart. New forks and synchros. I know they are clunky but I’m having a lot of trouble shifting. I’ve tried everything; running through the gears, double clutching, ect. And still have a terrible time getting into first and reverse. The only way I can do so without blood curdling grinding is by shutting the motor off. Anyone have any ideas or is that just the world we live in?

[Jim A]

That grinding in reverse and granny is what I began experiencing a few years ago and have been fighting ever since.
It is caused by the failure of the pressure plate to fully release the driven disc and the tranny gears continuing to rotate.
It can be "adjusted" away by lengthening the slave control rod to give the throwout bearing more movement, hence earlier and greater disc release.
This solves the grinding problem in the non-synchro gears, but at the expense of never fully freeing up the t/o bearing, making it in continuous contact with the release levers (or diaphragm) and turning continuously. Sort of like the worst "riding" the clutch possible.
Eventually the t/o bearing fails and takes the levers, the big main lever and the pilot bearing with it.
See my posts in related threads.
Clutches and parts are not available anywhere I could find and I had to replace the release levers with some I got from the trash barrel of a reman place.
I think I may have gotten one of two "long style" t/o bearings in existence from National through O'Reilly for about 70 bucks.
It has been a big job and one I still have not fully solved, with the lack of balance between free play and disc release still existing.
I still hope that the folks here have a fix.
Two things that don't help are "hydraulic clutches don't need adjustment" and "why don't you just put a 12" clutch in it."

[AZKen]

We all know we have to bleed the slave don't we? Just thought I would mention.