Rusted Distributor Problem

[Dens64GMC]

I'm not sure if my question belongs here, or under another section, but my issue has to do with a distributor rusted in the engine block. When I converted my points to Pertronix, I noticed I could not change the timing due to the distributor being rusted in the block. I've tried different "rust penetrants:, I was even told by a seasoned mechanic to make a solution of gas and oil, and that should work. I took it one step further by stuffing a rag around the area and soaking that with the solution for a couple days, without any luck.
How much torque can I place on the distributor before it snaps? Right now I've been trying to break it loose with my hands only. If I apply a wrench to it, do I run the risk of snapping the distributor in half?
Anyone know of a good penetrant I can use?

Thanks
Denis 64 fleetside longbed
Anaheim, CA

[FetchMeAPepsi]

You mean you can't pull it out? The distributor spins around so I dont know that it can be rusted in the block and still turn over, but Im no expert. Curious to see what everyone else says.

[Funky61]

How about a little CLR rust remover then some PB Blaster penetrating spray?

[abus319]

Im no expert and have never used it,but I hear good things about aerokroil. I personally dont believe anything will penetrate an unbroken line of rust without some associated vibration. A brass drift tapped lightly or possibly an air hammer on the lightest setting using the widest softest (chinese) driver ground to match the part. If you get desperate, you might try removing the intake manifold... carefully...

[Foley]

What abus319 says is true. Pick your penetrating solution, pour it directly onto the rusted/stuck area and tap, tap, tap, lightly. It's the vibration that will break it loose. P B Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, and also different home brewed mixtures. ATF alone has very good etching kinda action. I use a 50/50 mixture of diesel fuel and ATF. Lastly, a couple days is not enough. Direct application, tap, tap, tap, and do it everyday, couple times everyday. 10 times everyday. Everytime you walk by the truck. Use the brass drift, tap on the manifold around the distributor hole. Could take more than a week, depending on how badly stuck it is.

[tommyduncan]

I just brought a 351 home and it is stuck also, but not like yours. It will come part of the way out but then it gets stuck. I'm sure I will get it.

[turbobill]

I had a stuck distributor in a '74 350 Olds V8 last summer. I used an air hammer on the vacuum advance unit to get it to turn. Finally got it moving and free. Had to replace the vacuum advance unit as collateral damage.

tommyduncan,

Yours is stuck by sludge on the lower portion. Spray carburetor cleaner works the best and fastest for that. Lift it as far as you can, spray the heck out of the housing as is goes doen in the block and it will dissolve the sludge. Continue turning it back and forth as you try to remove it. That will help work the disolving sludge off.