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General Discussion Sit down and chat with fellow members! Any topics that don't fit other categories goes here. |
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#1
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Hello all,
As I'm still really new to this type of thing, I'm after some advice. I guess the biggest part that I'm not sure of is where to start (if that makes any sense). I've recently(ish) purchased a 1961 step-side with a 305D under the hood. My hope is to get it to where it's a reliable daily driver. But, it's also the kind of thing where I'm quite happy improving it over an extended period of time. I'm less interested in worrying about things like paint etc.... That stuff is certainly on the list, but the goal is to have a respectable truck that gets some use, rather than a show-pony. I'm certainly not interested in trying to turn it into something that it isn't (no hotting it up or anything like that). So, for all you folks that have done this a million times, where would you start? That's probably a really silly sounding question. But, at the moment when I look in the garage all I can think about is the thousands of parts that go into a vehicle and I start to get a bit overwhelmed with where to begin. At the end of this post is a list of what's already been done. I'm open to any and all suggestions really.... Particularly since I'm at the point where I want to do as much of the work on my own as possible. Anyway, any tips or advice is much appreciated. General electrical clean-up (removed all of the dodgy wiring. It’s bare bones now) All belts and hoses Standard service stuff (fluids, oils changed etc….) Standard tuning (service distributer, new plugs etc…) Temp sender Greased chassis points New alternator Exhaust repair Brake linings and hoses front/rear Wheel cylinders front/rear Drums machined Hub bearings repacked (replaced the rear) New uni joint Front shocks New tires (fun fact, the spare was an old split-rim style. That’s gone) New headlights and side mirrors New petrol sending unit |
#2
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Where to begin? You have begun mate. Big time!
Basically: 1. Safety...brakes, steering, suspension, tires, seat belts, lights 2. Some reliability...motor, starter, ignition, wiring, battery, fuel system 3. Try to be sure all gauges read accurately and monitor them 4. Rust, eventually 5. Don't worry, be happy Stay out of the outback for now You've done quite a bit. Check out the stuff in 1. and 2., Drive it and you will find the weak spots you missed. Carry a cell phone and a bunch of money. Nice truck, nice to meet you. Last edited by AZKen; October 31st, 2016 at 01:02 AM. |
#3
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In terms of reliability, if I was to start on the motor, what are the types of things you'd be looking for? Nice to e-meet you as well. I'm still getting used to the idea of communicating through forums and whatnot. So, if I put my foot in it, please try to give me the benefit of the doubt for awhile LOL. Last edited by Jmclendon; October 31st, 2016 at 01:07 AM. |
#4
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Does it start pretty quickly. Does it idle nicely. No smoke from tail pipe, breather, or anywhere else. Does it run good during the load of driving. WATCH heat and oil pressure gauges./lights
If you have not check and this is an unstarted/unknown motor, you need to take off valve covers and observe oil circulation or do an old/unstarted/been sitting a long time, start-up procedure. It sounds like you have not started it yet? That would open a whole new set of responsibilities. Gotta go watch the World Series. |
#5
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In fact, I've uploaded a short video of how it sounds starting and running. Sorry in advance for the size of the file (it's around 300mb). https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjwPdb4c9NJus3o3lgBeTLTkLiGL I'm jealous! First time for the Cubs since the turn of the 20th century and I'm stuck at work on the other side of the globe. |
#6
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First thing before I did anything , would be adjust the valves, and do compression test ,none of the rest is going to matter if you do not have a solid engine to start with, also oil pressure is great indicator of wear on lower end.
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#7
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And now for my dumb question, when it comes to the compression test, what's the correlation between the psi reading and the 7.75 to 1 that's on the 6066gmcguy's engine data page?
What does the 7.75 to 1 actually mean? I'm not getting much luck from the Google. |
#8
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The compression PSI to look for is 125 PSI with a MAX 20 PSI difference in all cylinders. Basically if you have a cylinder with 100 PSI and the rest or 120-125 PSI then you've got something going on with the cylinder. On mine the they were between 117 and 125 so I haven't worried about it.
You pretty much have everything you need covered. Long as it is mechanically sound and electrically safe you'll be fine.
__________________
"Excuse the rust I use my truck" 1964 GMC 1500 305E/sm420 4 barrel intake mod and dual exhaust. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. 1964 Chevy C20 292/SM420 1966 Chevy C10 292 hotrod 6/TKO600 My youtube channel aka Military Chevy: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#9
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Is less than 125 ok? The only reason I ask is that the specs 6066gmcguy page say that it's 7.75 to 1. When I run that through a formula I found online (which might be wrong?) I'm getting 114.
https://www.reference.com/science/co...aedc74e6b59d7# Thanks for the help! |
#10
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7.75.1 is 125 PSI. A max of 20 PSI less is ok. But like said...if only one or a couple cylinders has that big of a drop you have something else going on. If they are all less than 125 and even...then that just means the motor has miles on it.
__________________
"Excuse the rust I use my truck" 1964 GMC 1500 305E/sm420 4 barrel intake mod and dual exhaust. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. 1964 Chevy C20 292/SM420 1966 Chevy C10 292 hotrod 6/TKO600 My youtube channel aka Military Chevy: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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