[jbgroby]

Installing the Starter -
We had to also change starters due to the cone being too big you fit in the new backing plate mount hole. Lewis Macklin to the RESCUE, he knew the parts number of the start by memory! However, the top lip of the case interfered with the upper starter bolt, we simply had to grind off about 1/8" to pass a Allen head bolt. Good thing about an aluminum case is it’s easy to grind, bad thing about an aluminum case is it pretty much ruins a grinding stones because it clogs up the stone with soft metal. We got her bolted up to the block and called it a day!


Day 2 - Cross Member Install
Ok, remember we had to remove the transmission bell housing cross member? you will now need to ADD a new rear trans cross member to support the rear of the 700R. In all my research at the time, I discovered that no one makes a direct bolt in replacement cross member, this is because on the 60-model year and some later years, we have the 'X' frame. So, we had to make one up. Another member who did this swap already explained that all we needed to do was simply install a span of metal so the rear of the trans can bolt to. We used 2 pieces of 6" long 2" x 2" angle and bolted it up to the inside of the frame (there are two factory drilled 3/8" hold that worked perfect for us to use, we made the bottom flush with the frame, we split the distance where the mount would fall centered under the rear mount holes for the trans. Then we used another angle 2 foot long with the holes matched to the rubber Trans support. We bolted the new cross member to both the new angle mounts AND the truck frame. We could have used just 1 but why not use both. Remount the exhaust and she's done.


TV Cable and Accelerator issues -
Try as I might, I could not use the old GMC Bell Crank throttle and rod assembly due to it interfering with the new Bowtie Overdrive TV kick-down cable bracket. I had to order a Terry Cable Wire Throttle setup; I then went to the local Pick & Pull yard to locate a 2005-2009 Ford/Mercury gas pedal, as it uses a wire throttle line mount. I found this pedal better than the 3 point larger Chevy Truck pedal. The Ford/Mercury pedal uses just two screws/bolt to mount vs. the larger GM pad with a base plate shaped in a triangle. Where you need to mount the pedal has limited space, the Ford pedal assembly fits in the area perfectly and only cost me $7.00. The new aluminum billet pedals sold by most trucks' places run $99.00 and are the same generally, just fancier looking – Who looks at your gas pedal…..


After I removed the old firewall mounted gas pivot, I hand placed the new pedal to make sure I had the proper movement, using a sharpie I marked the 2 mount holes and bolted (you might need to bend the lower mount in a touch to conform with the bend in the firewall) it up with ½ long x ¼” SAE thread with lock washers and nuts. I then measured the “at idle” distance and then “full throttle” distance and WROTE this down (WRITE it down - don’t trust your memory). The full travel was 1 7/8”, you need to know this to make sure your carb throttle is not restricted and has the same full movement; the carb throttle was exactly the same.

On the engine side of the firewall (FW), I mocked up the bent in the throttle sleeve to see how sharp the bends were, and they worked out to a perfect ‘S’ curve, the cable slides as smooth as butter in the sleeve.

I then lined up and marked the spot where the throttle cable would come through the firewall and meet the gas pedal. Putting the pedal at full idle, I used a sharpie to mark the spot where I needed to drill. The Ford pedal has a slot designed in the pedal-head that works perfect with the new throttle wire head. I mounted the sleeve at the FW I threaded on the new wire and locked it down to the slot on the pedal mount.