[QUOTE=James;78158]
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryPirate
+ side is correct, one wire to ignition switch and the other side to the starter. The - side goes to the distributor.
Having voltage ≈12 Volts on the + and - is normal with the points are open. With the point closed, you will have ≈12 Volts on the + and almost nothing on the -. Keeping the key on and the point closed the voltage will slowly start to drop because the resistor wire (which is located between the firewall and the coil) is heating up reducing the power to the points.
Be sure to set the point gap to .019" new points and .016" old points. With the points follower on top of the lobe. If you don't have a set of point feeler gage, you can use a business card, it will be close enough to get it started. An easy check (but be careful you can get shocked), pull the coil wire out of the center of the distributor cap and position it close to the body ground. Be sure the point is close (between the lobes in the distributor). Open and close the points arm (using a flat blade screw driver only on the arm and do not touch the screw driver on the lobes or any other metal parts) and you should see a good spark coming off of the coil wire with the key in the run position (engine is sitting static, not running). Also make sure the screw driver has a good handle on it (shock hazard) and don't touch the shank while working the points (shock hazard).
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So, I haven’t had points in the distributor for years. I have the Pertronix electronic ignition, which now that you mention it, could’ve burned up.
Thanks for the knowledge you’re dropping on me and onto the forum.
It makes me want to switch back to points.