Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryPirate
"remove the plug on the right side of the carburetor fuel bowl to do this" - I'm guessing you meant the passenger side of the vehicle?
"fitting below the choke I think it does nothing" - I believe the documentation said the one below the choke is meant for timed ignition vacuum. See diagram of carb attached. Perhaps I need to use full manifold vacuum?
You're suggestion about the float level seems like a great starting point since it's the only place I hadn't yet explored. I assumed the factory setting would be reasonable but I am ignorant and it seems I should check this.
My Stromberg WW2 had a vacuum port on the back.
Thanks a bunch!
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When referring to left and right, it is viewed as if you are sitting in the driver seat.
My spare carburetor and the one on my truck does nothing. My "Timed Spark Vacuum Port" (what I called ported vacuum, get its vacuum from the venturi and not from the intake manifold) is where it says (most model in your picture) after I modified the throttle plate and gasket.
The one under the choke need to be checked by running the engine at idle and see if there is vacuum. For "Timed Spark Vacuum Port" (ported vacuum) there should be no vacuum. Opening the throttle to a high rpm you should feel the vacuum build. Using a vacuum gage make this an easy check.
I always double check the factory setting on a carburetor. To many times it was out of specs. Running rough is a sure sign of too high of fuel level. A quick check, (if you can keep the engine running) with the air breather off of the carburetor, look down into the carburetor (with choke wide open). At idle there should be no fuel coming out of the boost venturi. If there is, fuel level too high. Beside every engine is different. Working with recondition parts is the same as a use parts. You don't know it life history of the part. The carburetor that is on my truck were old unit that a friend gave me that had been laying around for years. Now it as good as new.