I dont remember if I mentioned it but my hub has the squeaky butt going on somewhere. I left the hubs locked all fall and winter (dunno if that matters) but when I noticed the sound I unlocked them. Poof - no more squeak. So I figured it's time for a hub rebuild.
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Time out - Remember we dropped the transfer case a while back? You're probably wondering what happened to that. Nothing! I filled it back with oil and bolted it back in so I could use Cecilia for making a few haul trips. We will get back to the Timkin (Rockwell) T221, I promise!
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Like many of my cells, my brain knows nothing about 4 wheel drive. There's not a lot of info out there either for 1960, 1961, or 1962 GMC trucks. In 1963 the hubs changed to a better kind with an addition of self adjusting brakes. I don't know what else is better exactly, just that they are. To tell if you have the older hubs take your wheel off and measure your hub from the brake cover to the end of the hub. If it's about 5 1/2 inches long then you have the old style hubs. If it's exactly 5 inches you have the new style.
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Now for information time. This is everything I found about these Power Train Tools branded hubs:
- My hubs are a Selectro clone, called Power Train Tools.
- They've been called Sears brand and Dualamatic as well.
- They were OEM from many vehicles for years.
- They were used on Military vehicles.
- They were manufactured by Husky up until they were bought out by MileMarker and then the quality fell off.
- If you have a model before about 1973 then they're great and strong enough for rock climbing.
- They're hard to turn to "free" when they get bound up with road gunk. I turn mine with a rubber pipe turning thingy like this.
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- To unlock or lock you turn the entire outside knob. This is designed to make it easy to use with gloves.
- It also keeps them from getting snow and mud inside a selector knob.
- All you should have to do with the locking hubs is completely disassemble, clean, re-grease and reassemble unless they're broken.
- Parts are a bit tough for the early 60s 4x4s.
- Bearings and seals are no problem at all (we'll get to part numbers in a bit)
- Locking hubs are still available that will fit if these hubs if they are beyond repair.
- The earlier 60s used a different style front brake backing plate until about 63. The first design had brake shoe adjusting cam for each shoe. The later versions have the self adjusting brakes.
- Parts are available for both.
- Knuckle bearings and seals are also still available, so that's no problem. (I still dont know what a knuckle bearing is
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)
- The one thing that is tough to find is the shim for the upper steering arm on the drivers side knuckle.
- Leave the steering arm attached as studs for it are tough to find.
- Just take the lower king pin off and removed the knuckle that way.
- Also shim the pre-load for the knuckle during assembly from the bottom king pin only. It works out just fine that way.
- You can get a lot of the parts for the earlier brake styles from a Willys Jeep supplier of all places as most of the stuff was the same.
- Spindles are getting tough to find
- Early style hubs are scarce, but the later ones that are intended for the self adjusting style backing plate are still out there.
- So long as your bearing races are loose in the hub or spin, they should be useable.
(special thanks to Jonathan for about half of that list!)